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Chapter 6 · Styles on a map

A World of Spirits

Every spirit is the same trick played on a different harvest. Press a pin: what grows there, how its sugar is freed, which still it meets and how long it waits in wood.

THE SPIRITS OF THE WORLD 1 SCOTCH 2 IRISH 3 BOURBON 4 JAPANESE 5 COGNAC 6 RUM 7 TEQUILA 8 MEZCAL 9 GIN 10 VODKA 11 BAIJIU 12 SHOCHU
Scotland

Scotch malt whisky

Made from
Still
Strength

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Same principle, different harvest

A spirit takes its character from three choices: what is fermented, how it is distilled, and what happens after. The raw material is mostly what grows nearby: barley in the cool north, corn on the American prairie, grapes in wine country, cane in the tropics, agave in the highlands of Mexico, sorghum and rice in East Asia. The still decides how much of that raw material survives: a pot still keeps a great deal, a tall column almost nothing. The cask, or the lack of one, finishes the job.

Below are twelve styles, each with its own page. They are described by region and by rule, never by brand: what the law or the tradition asks of every producer there.

1 · ScotlandScotch malt whiskymalted barley
2 · IrelandIrish whiskeymalted & unmalted barley
3 · United States (Kentucky heartland)Bourboncorn (at least 51%)
4 · JapanJapanese whiskymalted barley & grain
5 · Charente, FranceCognac & brandywhite wine grapes
6 · Caribbean & tropicsRummolasses or cane juice
7 · Jalisco, MexicoTequilablue agave
8 · Oaxaca, MexicoMezcalmany species of agave
9 · London & the Low CountriesGinneutral spirit + juniper
10 · Poland, Russia & the vodka beltVodkagrain or potatoes
11 · China (Sichuan, Guizhou, Shanxi)Baijiusorghum
12 · Kyushu & Okinawa, JapanShochu & awamorisweet potato, barley, rice